What the colony is doing each month, and what that means you should be doing. Written for south-central Pennsylvania.
Written for south-central Pennsylvania — roughly USDA zone 6b, around Harrisburg. If you keep bees appreciably north or south of here, shift the whole thing a couple of weeks in the obvious direction.
JanuaryDeep winter
In the hive: Cluster tight. Cleansing flights on warm days above about 50 °F. The queen may lay a few eggs.
Don't open the hive. Do an external check — ear against the upper box, or tap and listen for the roar back.
Heft the back for weight. If it's light, add dry sugar, fondant or a candy board on a warm day.
Keep the cover secured and clear ice off the entrance. Snow banked around the hive is fine — it insulates.
A few dead bees or fecal spots on the snow is a good sign, not a bad one. It means somebody is alive in there.
Order packages, nucs and queens now. Producers sell out earlier every year.
Take inventory. Clean, repair, assemble and paint equipment. Check stored comb for wax moths.
FebruaryLate winter
In the hive: Still clustered, now up near the top of the stack. The queen starts laying in earnest. Starvation risk climbing.
Still no reason to open. Evaluate the same way as January.
Feed dry sugar or a candy board if they're light — starvation risk is rising fast now.
Some beekeepers start pollen patties this month to push brood rearing.
Finish equipment prep while you still have the time.
MarchEarly spring
In the hive: Lowest adult population of the whole year, right before buildup. The queen is near full lay if pollen is coming in. HIGHEST starvation risk of the year.
More colonies starve this month than any other. They want three to four combs of honey — keep feeding until real forage shows up.
Move honey frames in next to the cluster, or move an empty bottom box up top.
Mites are starting to build. Nothing to do yet, but be aware of it.
Consider pollen substitute to stimulate laying.
AprilSpring
In the hive: Bringing in pollen and nectar on the warm days. Drone rearing begins. Still a starvation risk in a cold snap.
Quick brood and stores checks on the warmest days only — don't chill brood.
Start MONTHLY varroa monitoring. This is the ideal window for treatments that need supers off.
Check every brood frame for American foulbrood while the colony is still small enough to go through.
Install packages and nucs and feed them. Wait about two weeks before opening a new colony.
Remove winter wraps, insulation and mouse guards. Check the bear fence.
Requeen underperformers. If you're rearing queens, start watching for swarm cells.
MaySpring buildup and swarm season
In the hive: Brood rearing in high gear. Swarm season starts mid-month — watch for queen cups along frame bottoms. Mites building.
Inspect every two weeks: brood pattern, queen and eggs, room, pests. Keep records.
Swarm control: add room, keep the brood nest from getting honey-bound, watch for swarm cells, split the strong ones.
Add supers as the boxes fill and the black locust and tulip poplar come on.
Monitor varroa. A brood break from caging the queen or making a split knocks them back for free.
Replace the two oldest frames per box.
Best month of the year to rear queens and catch swarms. Set out bait hives.
JunePeak season
In the hive: Peak population, June into July. Swarm season carries on. Mites still building.
Inspect at least monthly — brood, queen, room, pests.
Keep up swarm control. Prime queen-rearing time.
Monitor varroa. Drone-comb trapping or a brood break helps.
Keep supers on through the clover flow — foundation draws beautifully right now.
Extract spring honey once you pull the supers. Extract promptly or hive beetles find it.
JulySummer
In the hive: Swarm season winds down mid-month. Population still high. Heat brings bearding and ventilating. Dearth usually sets in. Mites climbing hard.
Inspect at least monthly, and watch for robbing once the dearth starts.
Put out a water source if it's hot and dry.
Monitor varroa. This is about your last chance to split and still have it build up.
Keep supering through the basswood and linden if you get it.
Harvest as supers fill and extract promptly.
AugustLate summer — winter prep starts here
In the hive: Winter-bee rearing begins. Mites usually peak August into September. A second small swarm season. Goldenrod and knotweed start.
Inspect thoroughly — you're deciding now which colonies can take the fall flow and make it through winter.
The critical varroa window. The bees being raised this month have to live six months, and mite-damaged winter bees are exactly why colonies die in February. Treat now.
Aim for 70 to 90 lb of stores for winter. Start 2:1 syrup if they're light.
Check every brood frame for American foulbrood.
Combine weak colonies, requeen where needed, add an upper entrance for ventilation.
SeptemberEarly fall
In the hive: Last real month to get colonies winter-ready. Mites may still be peaking. First frost usually mid-month.
Don't disrupt the brood nest — it costs you winter bees you can't get back.
Finish varroa treatment, especially anything that needed the supers off.
Confirm winter stores of 70 to 90 lb and feed heavy 2:1 if light. Last good month to feed pollen.
Combine colonies that clearly won't make it rather than pouring resources into them.
Extract fall honey immediately — hive beetles will find unattended supers.
OctoberFall — winterize
In the hive: Little or no laying left. Cluster forms around 50 °F. Drones get evicted.
Final mite check, then pull and store every treatment before you close up.
Winterize: excess supers and the excluder off, cover secured, mouse guard on (confirm there isn't already a mouse in there) and entrance reducer in.
Confirm stores and feed 2:1 if needed. Stop feeding pollen.
Manage moisture: upper entrance, tilt the hive forward so condensation drains out. Moisture kills far more colonies than cold does.
Move hives to a sunny winter yard if you have one.
NovemberEarly winter
In the hive: Cluster set. Little to no laying. The broodless window usually opens somewhere in here.
Finish winterizing — wrap or insulate if you do that, keep an upper entrance for moisture, tilt forward to drain.
Watch for the broodless window. It is the single best oxalic acid opportunity of the year.
Freeze or properly store any comb that wax moths could find.
Otherwise hands off. Leave them alone.
DecemberDeep winter
In the hive: Cluster set, little to no laying. A quiet month.
Leave the cluster alone. Just confirm covers and entrances are secure after storms.
Heft for stores on a mild day. Emergency dry sugar if it feels very light.
Plan next year — read, order early, go to club meetings and bee school.
The two dates that decide your year. Mid-May, when you either give them room or watch half of them fly into a tree. And August, when the bees that have to survive until March are being raised. Almost everything else is recoverable.